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Faux Finishing
Through the use of glazes and brushes, paints can be heavily manipulated to achieve a myriad of different looks. Techniques range from simple sponging applications which texturize a surface, to more challenging quests such as imitating marble.
Behind the Scenes of Faux Finishing
Although it is possible to create faux finishing looks without the aid of expensive tools, certain techniques require the use of specific brushes. The right brushes can make an amazing difference in your final result. Background and basecoat brushes are made for all-purpose uses. Bristle and badger softener brushes are used to blend paint edges more softly and delicately than other types of brushes, plus they lend the painter a great deal of control over the result. Flogger brushes have heavy bristles and often used for graining. Stippler brushes have large flat surfaces used to soften the appearance of paint while still wet. Stencil brushes are usually stiff, short handled brushes that allow a painter to work closely toward the surface of the project. The bristles are made stiff so hairs don’t slip under the stencil, aiding in crisp detail work. Graining rollers are normally made of rubber and pulled across wet glaze to produce a heart grain wood effect.
Finishing Techniques
Glazes manipulate paints to matte or glossy finishes, and thin or thick consistencies. A heavily glazed paint, called thin paint, looks transparent and is called a wash. A wash is ideal for creating layers of depth with different colors, or as a top transparent layer that allows previous colors to peek through. The easiest technique for the beginner is sponging which requires the use of natural or kitchen sponges. In its simplest form, you can fill a sponge with paint and randomly dab it onto a surface. In its more challenging form, softer effects are created when merging two wet colors achieved by printing over a wet ground coat. In the technique of ragging, a mottled pattern look can be achieved by rolling a bundled and glaze-dipped, lint-free rag over a wet surface. Another favorite is the art of stenciling which can be applied to furniture, walls and objects applied with color that’s sponged, spray painted or brushed on through a shaped border.
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Metallic Leafing (Gilding)
Leafing, also called gilding, is the method of applying very thin sheets of metal to an object to give it the illusion of being gold, silver or copper. Most leafing methods require the use of a basecoat, adhesive size, leaf sheets, satin sealer and a few brushes. Optional items include antiquing glaze, sandpaper and cheesecloth.
To begin a leafing project, start by applying an even layer of basecoat onto the desired object using a brush. Once the base coat is dry, you may rub the surface lightly with sandpaper creating an antiqued and textured look that the leaf will later pick up. Next, add a thin coat of adhesive size. The sizing, when dry, remains sticky–this is the surface to which the leafing will adhere. Carefully apply the leaf directly to the surface. Overlapping pieces of leaf is okay. The inevitable cracks lend authenticity because the base coat will and is supposed to show through. When the surface is covered with leaf, use a cloth or brush and lightly stroke the extra metallic particles off the surface and smooth out the bubbles. Apply a thin coat of satin sealer and let dry. For a less lustrous appearance, you may want to apply antiquing glaze. Applied with a cheesecloth, antiquing glaze will slightly alter the color of the metallic finish giving it a vintage appearance. The key to successful antiquing is subtlety. Where other effects ask to be noticed, antiquing needs the delicate tones and refined textures that will make the piece look as if it has been hidden away in the attic for a very long time. The antiqued effect warms and softens the gilding making the finished object glow rather than standing out brashly.
Helpful Hints
Keys to Success – Surface Preparation
It is important before beginning a home decor finishing project that the surface be prepared properly to accept the media used. The following steps will ensure success.
1) Fill in all surface imperfections such as nail holes with putty or a plaster patch. The painted finish techniques will not hide imperfections; they will simply magnify them.
2) Start sanding with a coarse to medium grade of sandpaper and work down to finer grades. The coarser grades will take off rough areas quickly, while the finer sandpapers will finish smoothing the surface. It’s important to work with the same or finer grit when sanding, never courser because this will cause scratches. A rule of thumb when buying sandpaper is that the grit is graded by number, and the numbers rise as the grit becomes finer.
3) A sealed non-porous surface is essential for painted surfaces or decorative design work. A surface can be sealed with paints, varnishes or sealing products.
4) Strip a piece of furniture only when there is no other solution (it’s peeling or flaking badly). Stripping is time-consuming project and makes such a mess that the piece of furniture must be somewhat valuable to you to be worth the effort.
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